Almost everyone who finds an old object in an attic asks the same question. The honest answer is that an antique is worth what someone recently paid for a comparable piece, in similar condition, through a similar kind of sale. Not what a seller hopes to get, not what a TV show suggests, and not what it cost new. This guide shows you how to find that number yourself, and when it makes sense to pay a professional.
Start by identifying what you have
You can't value an object until you know what it is. Before you look up a single price, try to pin down:
- What it is and what it's made of. A silver-plated teapot and a sterling one can look alike but sit at very different price levels. See silver hallmarks: sterling vs plate.
- Who made it. Marks, labels, signatures and stamps matter. For ceramics, start with pottery and porcelain marks.
- When it was made. A Victorian original and a 1970s copy of the same design are different objects. Our guide on antique, vintage or reproduction covers the signs of real age.
- Where it was made. Country of origin often affects both demand and price.
Asking prices vs sold prices
This is the single most important idea in valuation. An asking price is what a seller would like to receive. A sold price is what a buyer actually paid. They are often far apart.
Online marketplaces are full of optimistic listings that sit unsold for months. A dozen high listings tell you what sellers hope for, not what the market will pay.
Using eBay's "Sold items" filter
A standard eBay search shows active listings, which means asking prices. To see real results:
- Search for your item using specific words: maker, pattern name, material, and object type.
- Open the filters and turn on Sold items (on the desktop site it sits under "Show only" in the left-hand panel).
- Look at the green prices. Those are completed sales.
Compare carefully. Check that the sold items really match yours in maker, size, colour and condition. A chipped example and a perfect one are not the same comparison. Also look at how many sold: one high sale is an outlier, while ten similar sales give you a range you can trust.
Auction archives
Auction houses publish results for past sales, and several sites gather them in searchable databases. Places worth checking include:
- LiveAuctioneers and Invaluable, which host online bidding for many auction houses and show results from past sales.
- WorthPoint, a subscription service that collects historical sale records from auctions and online marketplaces.
- The websites of individual auction houses, especially regional ones that specialise in your type of object.
When you read auction results, remember that a "hammer price" often excludes the buyer's premium, a percentage the buyer pays on top. Some sites show the price with premium included, others don't, so check which figure you are looking at. And if you sell through an auction, the house takes a seller's commission, so what you receive will be lower than the published result.
What drives the price up or down
Two objects that look alike can sell for very different amounts. These are the factors that usually explain the gap.
Condition
Condition affects almost every category. Chips, cracks, repairs, missing parts, replaced hardware, refinished surfaces and heavy wear all reduce value, sometimes sharply. In some fields, such as furniture, an original old finish is preferred over a fresh refinish, even if the refinished piece looks "nicer". Never clean, polish or repair something valuable before getting advice, because the wrong treatment can remove value that can't be put back.
Rarity and authenticity
Common objects made in large numbers rarely command high prices, however old they are. Genuine rarity, a desirable maker, or an unusual variation can change that. Authenticity matters too: a convincing reproduction is worth a fraction of the original.
Provenance
Provenance is the documented history of an object: who owned it, where it was bought, and any records that support that story. Receipts, old photographs, exhibition labels, letters and earlier auction catalogues can all add confidence and sometimes value. A family story without documents is interesting, but buyers will usually treat it with caution.
Demand and taste
Prices follow fashion, and fashion changes. A well-known example is so-called "brown furniture": traditional dark-wood pieces such as Victorian and Edwardian dining sets, wardrobes and sideboards. Demand for much of it has fallen considerably since the early 2000s, as buyers moved towards smaller homes and different styles. Many solid, well-made pieces now sell for modest sums. At the same time, mid-century modern design and certain decorative objects have attracted strong interest. An object's age alone does not decide its value. What buyers want today does.
Which "value" do you need?
The word "value" means different things depending on why you're asking. Appraisers distinguish between several types:
| Type of value | What it means | Typical use |
|---|---|---|
| Fair market value | The price a willing buyer and willing seller would agree on, both reasonably informed and under no pressure | Estates, tax, charitable donations, dividing property |
| Replacement value | The cost of buying a comparable item from a retail source within a reasonable time | Insurance |
| Marketable cash value | What you would likely get selling it now, after selling costs | Deciding whether and where to sell |
Replacement value for insurance is usually higher than fair market value, because buying from a dealer costs more than selling at auction. That's why an insurance appraisal figure is not a guide to what you'll receive if you sell.
When to pay for a professional appraisal
You don't need a formal appraisal for every flea-market find. It is worth paying for one when:
- Your research suggests the object could be worth a significant amount.
- You need a figure for insurance, an estate, a divorce, or a tax deduction.
- The object is hard to compare, such as a one-off piece of art or a rare item with few recorded sales.
- You suspect it might be a fake and need an expert opinion before selling.
Choosing an appraiser
Look for an appraiser accredited by a recognised professional body. In the United States, the main ones are:
- American Society of Appraisers (ASA)
- Appraisers Association of America (AAA)
- International Society of Appraisers (ISA)
Ask about their speciality, since nobody is expert in everything, and whether their reports follow the Uniform Standards of Professional Appraisal Practice (USPAP) when you need a formal written appraisal. Reputable appraisers charge a flat or hourly fee, not a percentage of the value they assign, because a percentage fee creates a conflict of interest. Be cautious about anyone who appraises an object and then offers to buy it.
Auction houses also offer free verbal estimates, especially for items they might sell. These can be very useful, but remember that an auction estimate is a guess at what something will fetch in a sale, not a formal appraisal.
Where an AI estimate fits in
A quick photo-based estimate is a helpful first step. AI Antique, for example, gives a price range in US dollars along with the reasoning behind it, and its "Search on eBay" button opens a search for the item so you can check comparable listings. Turn on the "Sold items" filter there to see completed sales rather than asking prices.
Treat any estimate, from an app or a friend, as a starting point for research, not as an appraisal. It can't handle the object, test the metal, look inside a drawer, or confirm a signature. If the numbers suggest your piece might be important, that is the moment to talk to a qualified appraiser or a specialist auction house.
Tip: Keep a simple record for each object: photos from several angles, close-ups of marks, measurements, condition notes and any sold comparisons you found. It makes an appraiser's job faster and helps you spot when a price you're offered is too low.